“He invited us to take part in the 2015 rally as guests of honour,” says Elisabeth. “We were given pole position for the start at Tuxtla Gutiérrez.”
Taking in the view at Mirador de San Carlos Nuevo Guaymas
It was the couple’s first taste of Mexican hospitality, and the Smits soon fell in love with the country.
“We enjoyed Mexico so much that our planned five-week stay ended up being a year,” explains Elisabeth. “Before we left New Zealand we had enrolled in two winter courses in Spanish, and we also spent time studying the language as we travelled.”
This fluency in the local lingo certainly came in handy for the onward journey.
From Mexico, the Mercedes crossed into Belize, Guatemala, Honduras and then El Salvador, although the Guatemalan border guards initially refused to let the couple leave without their trailer, which had been put in storage so they could tackle the mountainous terrain.
The classic Mercedes tackling the Cordillera Blanca mountain range, part of the Andes, in Peru
When they attempted to cross into Honduras for a second time, they had another brush with the law.
“We relied on the wisdom of our GPS to get from Chiquimula to Copán, but it took us to an unmanned border crossing,” says Fred.
Not wanting to fall foul of the authorities, the pair retraced their steps, only to find themselves staring down the barrel of a gun – or rather six guns.
“The road was blocked by two armoured vehicles from the Guatemalan anti-narcotics force, and six troopers jumped out with their automatic weapons,” says Fred. Evidently the unmanned border is popular with drug mules.
Crossing the Río Madre Vieja in Guatemala by ferry
By July 2016, Abel and the trailer were back in a 40ft container, this time from Veracruz, Mexico, bound for Cartagena, Colombia.
The passage took three weeks, which the Smits whiled away by touring Cuba.
It wasn’t the only break they took from their beloved Benz: the couple visited the Galápagos Islands and took a voyage to the Weddell Sea, off Antarctica.
Three months in Colombia followed the Cuba trip, before they set course for Ecuador and Peru.
From there, the adventure continued into Argentina and Brazil, where Abel’s odometer – which had been zeroed at the start of the trip – hit the 100,000km mark.
Here the couple are in the high Andes near Villa Unión, in Argentina
A stint in Uruguay followed, before heading back to Argentina and over the Andes to Santiago, Chile.
And there Abel ’s rear axle again cried enough, which was hardly surprising considering that it had criss-crossed the Andes a total of nine times. Salvation came from Mercedes-Benz itself.
“The head of Kaufmann – Chile’s only Mercedes dealership – offered us his facilities,” explains Elisabeth. It was just the garage, though, because the couple did the bulk of the spannering themselves.
And they didn’t hold back.
Elisabeth and Fred took residence at Kaufmann Mercedes, Pajaritos, in Chile to mend the car – here axle repairs are in progress
“We spent six days a week there for three months, refurbishing a lot of mechanical and electrical parts,” adds Elisabeth, who isn’t shy about getting her hands dirty.
Trawl through their 200-plus social posts and you’ll find snaps of her overhauling the brakes and re-installing needle roller bearings in the rear axle’s sliding yoke. By mid-May, Abel ’s rear end was sorted.
And that was just as well, because the route back to Colombia over the following four months involved some seriously rough roads, including the PE-3N from Cañón del Pato to Cachicadán, Santiago de Chuco, in Peru – the route that proved so tough they emulated Bertha Benz’s pace by covering just 247km in 14 hours.
The Mercedes motoring through the Torres del Paine National Park, in Chile’s Patagonia region
“The road winds around steep mountains with drops of hundreds of metres without guardrails, and parts of it are washed away,” explains Fred, who counted 38 single-lane tunnels as they climbed more than 4000ft. “I had to adjust the carbs several times, too.”
Adding to the treacherous environment was the fact that locals occasionally sabotage the road with hidden bumps and by removing drain covers, as the Smits found out.
“Of six covers in one village,” recalls Fred, “one had been removed, but I didn’t spot it.”
The result was touch-and-go as Abel’s rear suspension bottomed out, and the car had to be jacked up to be extracted from the hole.
A black-market petrol purchase in Venezuela
The drama continued when the Smits later had to move the remnants of a landslide by hand, then ran out of fuel.
Thankfully, like Bertha 130 years earlier, they were able to buy some from a chemist, albeit at an exorbitant cost, as Fred recalls: “We bought 62 litres at $4.63per litre!”
That day was just one of many extraordinary, if harrowing, mountain-pass experiences before they made it back to Cartagena, from where Abel was once again loaded into a container, this time heading for Felixstowe, England.
The couple spent eight months touring the UK and The Netherlands before the onset of COVID-19 scuppered their plans.
Back in Europe, the Smits and their Mercedes enjoyed a Buckingham Palace photocall while in London (left), and stayed in their native Haarlem in The Netherlands, from December 2019 until March 2020
Fate had dealt them a kind hand, however, because an issue with their travel insurance had prompted a return to New Zealand.
“We had to come back to take out a new policy,” says Elisabeth, “and soon after we arrived home the world changed.”
With its borders shut and a low infection rate, the island nation was one of the best places to be holed up while the world locked down.
This meant the Smits didn’t need to shelve their travel plans, just adjust them: never ones to sit idle, they put Abel into storage in The Netherlands and overhauled their 1989 Mitsubishi camper, before adding nearly 25,000km to its odometer touring New Zealand over the past year.
Elisabeth and Fred Smits hope to continue touring with Abel the Mercedes later this year
With life returning to normal, the Smits hope to be reunited with Abel later this year and plan to head for Eastern Europe.
“During the Communist era it wasn’t possible for us to visit those countries,” says Fred, who’s also keen to see Iran, Turkey and the ’stans.
They also hope to visit Scandinavia and North Africa, too. After that, there are no firm plans, apart from ultimately an aim to take Abel back Down Under, touring Australia on the way home.
Assuming, that is, they don’t get inspired by another article…
To follow Abel and the Smits’ ongoing journey, see facebook.com/ClassicStrider
Images: Elisabeth & Fred Smits/Luis Alfredo Domínguez Hazbún
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